Friday, 6 May 2011

Backyard Bird Photography Tips

Backyard Bird Photography Tips






















The following thoughts on Backyard Bird Photography was submitted by NaturesPixel (our forum Administrator). Check out her Flickr account - particularly her bird photography (one of which is the second shot in this article).

Best Time of Year

The best time of year to photograph birds is Spring. That way you have the opportunity to capture birds you wouldn’t normally see due to spring migration. Later in spring you can also capture the adults tending to their offspring. That being said, any time of year can be good, in late Autumn you will get the migration coming back down south and winter you may have birds that live north during summer but live in your back yard during winter.

Best Time of Day

Early morning is best. I find within the 3 hours after the sun rises the birds are at their most active. At this time the sun is not at full strength which gives you nice even light. Two hours before sunset can also be a very fruitful time.


Camera Gear

To get ‘pro’ shots in the wild you will need a SLR/DSLR with a 300mm (or more) lens, but in the back yard the rules change. You can even get good shots with an advanced point and shoot with 10x Zoom as I did with my Minolta Dimage Z5.
You will need a tripod to steady yourself also I some times set my camera up in the yard closer to the feeders, sit back away from the camera and use my remote to fire off the shutter. So I recommend you have at least a 10x zoom or a 200mm lens, a Tripod/Monopod, remote shutter release and most of all patience.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Camera Settings

I recommend using either continuous focusing or manual focusing with pre-focusing on the branch/perch or feeders.
I set my white balance manually although as I do tend to forget that sometimes I always shoot in RAW. That way if I do forget to set my white balance or my exposure is off a little I can fix within my image editing software.
I tend to shoot in Aperture Priority Mode when shooting birds that are feeding, that way you can control the depth of field.
With in flight birds I shoot in manual mode, setting the shutter and aperture. This is all a learning curve that takes practice and patience.

Attracting Birds

There are numerous way to attract birds and it will largely depend upon the type of birds that are in your area.
  • Flora – One alternative is to plant native plants, shrubs, and/or grasses. For example planting a chokecherry will attract Cedar Waxwings and Robins to your yard for the 2 weeks that the berries are ripe. There are ten native plants that attract hummingbirds to your yard also. In the end I recommend you do the research for each bird that you want to attract as each will have it’s own unique things that attracts it.
  • Water – Another alternative is to have a running waterfall or pond that will attract birds that don’t feed from feeders. Also having fresh water in a shallow dish will help.
  • Seed – Most feeders come in a variety of shapes and sizes (again research is needed to find the right one for the type of birds you’re hoping to attract). Keep in mind that most feeders are not aesthetically pleasing to the eye and could prove to be distracting in your shots. This is where your imagination comes in and you can get creative. For example try hanging extra large sunflower heads off trees, get semi hollow logs and placing them upright with seed in the top etc.
  • Perches – Using perches made from broken branches and twigs can be good as they will provide a place for the birds to sit. Make sure that you use the right size branch for the size of bird you are trying to capture.
Besides photography, there are other reasons attracting birds is a good idea. For example having the northern Oriole come to your yard will help keep down the Wasps. Humming birds don’t just feed on sugar water they east insects too !
I could go on and on about attracting birds to your backyard but the rest is up to you to research as each yard and bird species is so different.

Setting up and Positioning yourself

There are a few things you can do here that will help you create a place that birds feel comfortable to visit without knowing you’re there.
  1. You can get a hide (a camouflage tent)
  2. Hide behind something (I hide behind the lattice on my back deck)
  3. Shoot from inside your house – I shoot from my bedroom, particularly in winter. I have the feeder set up just off my bedroom window. You can shoot from whatever room you like, even the bathroom, as long as it gives you a clear line of sight. Just make sure you clean the glass. A polarizer can help in this situation. It can help with the glare if you are picking it up off the glass.
You can hide where ever. As long as it gives you a clear line of sight to the bird.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Birds In Flight

I don’t have many in-flight shots because they are harder to do, but here are a few tips that will help.
You can get shots of birds flying off from the feeder by pre focusing just off the feeder and setting your shutter speed and aperture manually.
Here is one tip I will try this season. I have one feeder where the birds have only 2 ways to land there. I plan to set my camera on a tripod just behind the feeder and, using my remote, I will fire off shots as they are coming into land. This should capture them with their wings stretched out.

Conclusion

Just remember, bird photography takes practice and patience. You will toss many more shots into the trash then you keep, but that’s why we shoot digital.
Getting into the backyard can be rewarding. You get to see Mother Nature at her best and you get to help save some species.
For example, here in Ontario the Black Capped Chickadees need help, so feeding them through the year can help the species survive. There are some great websites that can help with identification, like eNature.com that you can search with your zipcode if you live in the United States. Search via zipcode and eastern western cananda, there are many different sites that pertain to different parts of the world. Your countries government environmental website will also have some good information.
Do you have some bird photography tips to share? Head over to the forums where we have a bird photography thread for your questions, tips and photos.

Read more: http://www.digital-photography-school.com/backyard-bird-photography-tips#ixzz1La3V1gNb

How To Get Better Digital Photos In Low Light Conditions Without Using A Flash

How To Get Better Digital Photos In Low Light Conditions Without Using A Flash

The following guest tip on Low Light Photography Without Using A Flash was submitted by Amy Renfrey – author of the Digital Photography Success ebook. I’ll be back from my short break tomorrow.

Digital photography is easy- when you have plenty of light and the conditions are ideal. But, as you may know, lighting conditions in digital photography aren’t always as we would like them. In digital photography its essential that we work with light as much as humanly possible otherwise disappointing results may occur.

One of my subscribers asked me how he could take digital photos at his friends wedding. He did not want to use the flash to distract the bride and groom during the time they were saying their vows. What he was asking me was how to get better digital photos in low light conditions without the necessity of using a flash. It’s a very good digital photography question. Good news it can be done. But like everything in photography there are advantages and disadvantages.

The flash is the biggest solution to low light digital photography. However the problem with this is that not all situations can benefit from using the flash. Not only does it interfere with your “moment” socially and artistically, but the flash can flatten out your digital images. This is especially true for a flash that is built-in on digital cameras. The built in flash (and a flash in general) has the effect of lighting your subject on the front only which compresses the depth in your digital photos. Compressed depth can really decrease the beauty of your subject in your digital photography.

Low-Light-No-Flash-1Photo by hirosan

This can be avoided to a certain degree, depending on your subject and by watching how your light falls. Learn how to see how the light falls on your surroundings and your mind will become adept at knowing what works and what doesn’t with the flash

Really, a good way to combat the problem in low light you can try using a higher ISO. Your ISO simply means the amount of sensitivity of light falling on your sensor. For example take traditional photography as a comparison to digital photography. Traditional photography ISO will be film sensitivity. (ISO in traditional terms works with film speed as well.)

The only set back in digital photography ISO is noise. If your ISO is perfect for the photo yet there is a significant increase in noise you can use software to sharpen up your digital photo. There are two good noise reduction software programs called“Noise Ninja” or “Neat Image”. If you don’t push the ISO higher you may find the problem with camera shake if a tripod is not in hand. By adjusting the ISO you will find that noise is better than camera shake. In digital photography noise will always be something to consider.

In digital photography, a higher ISO allows you to take photos in low light situations. In traditional photography you’d have to change your roll of film from. In digital photography ISO give you the opportunity to adjust a setting, rather than fiddle with changing film. This is advantageous if the subject is not going to stay around or you yourself are unable to stay for an extended length of time.

I’ll use another example. Let’s take for example you are taking dome digital shots indoors, like someone speaking, or playing an instrument. Perhaps the flash is not appropriate in this situation. In this case (which happens a lot in digital photography) you would simply adjust the ISO to a higher setting. If you set the camera on “ISO Auto” your digital camera will then detect that a higher ISO is necessary. Alternatively you can set the ISO yourself. This higher sensitivity can give you the opportunity of gaining the right exposure for the shot.

If you find that’s still not right, because your digital photo now has camera shake and you don’t have a tripod, you can in fact decide on the next top ISO which will then enable you to select a faster shutter speed.

update – DPS reader BayTamper emailed in a continuation of this post with an extra tip:

As someone who shoots a ton of low light, no flash concert photography, I feel you hit on two key points, but left out a THIRD KEY POINT, which is FAST LENSES!!!

For me, when I’m absolutely desperate for light without a flash, I use this technique:

1. Crank ISO as high as it will go
2. Shoot RAW if possible
3. Use aperature-priority with the lowest f-stop on the fastest lens I have (f1.8 or lower if you can).
4. If that still caases my shutter speeds to be too low to hand-hold, then I might even set exposure compoensation down a stop, which will increase the speed a little, and then I’ll push the exposure in post (preferablly in RAW).
5. Lastly, I’ll use various forms of noise reduction to help on the grain/noise front.

And although a fast lens can be very expensive, there are affordable primes out there, like the Canon f1.8 50mm which is $80, or the f1.8 85mm canon USM that is just over $300. That extra stop or two can seriously make the difference in low light / no flash photography.


Read more: http://www.digital-photography-school.com/how-to-get-better-digital-photos-in-low-light-conditions-without-using-a-flash#ixzz1La2r7gBT

WHAT IS ISO

What is ISO?

In traditional (film) photography ISO (or ASA) was the indication of how sensitive a film was to light. It was measured in numbers (you’ve probably seen them on films – 100, 200, 400, 800 etc). The lower the number the lower the sensitivity of the film and the finer the grain in the shots you’re taking.
In Digital Photography ISO measures the sensitivity of the image sensor. The same principles apply as in film photography – the lower the number the less sensitive your camera is to light and the finer the grain. Higher ISO settings are generally used in darker situations to get faster shutter speeds (for example an indoor sports event when you want to freeze the action in lower light) – however the cost is noisier shots. I’ll illustrate this below with two elargements of shots that I just took – the one on the left is taken at 100 ISO and the one of the right at 3200 ISO (click to enlarge to see the full effect).
Iso-1
(you can see larger sized images of both shots here for the 100 ISO and here for the 3200 ISO)


100 ISO is generally accepted as ‘normal’ and will give you lovely crisp shots (little noise/grain).
Most people tend to keep their digital cameras in ‘Auto Mode’ where the camera selects the appropriate ISO setting depending upon the conditions you’re shooting in (it will try to keep it as low as possible) but most cameras also give you the opportunity to select your own ISO also.
When you do override your camera and choose a specific ISO you’ll notice that it impacts the aperture and shutter speed needed for a well exposed shot. For example – if you bumped your ISO up from 100 to 400 you’ll notice that you can shoot at higher shutter speeds and/or smaller apertures.
When choosing the ISO setting I generally ask myself the following four questions:
  1. Light – Is the subject well lit?
  2. Grain – Do I want a grainy shot or one without noise?
  3. Tripod – Am I using a tripod?
  4. Moving Subject – Is my subject moving or stationary?
If there is plenty of light, I want little grain, I’m using a tripod and my subject is stationary I will generally use a pretty low ISO rating.
However if it’s dark, I purposely want grain, I don’t have a tripod and/or my subject is moving I might consider increasing the ISO as it will enable me to shoot with a faster shutter speed and still expose the shot well.
Of course the trade off of this increase in ISO will be noisier shots.
Situations where you might need to push ISO to higher settings include:
  • Indoor Sports Events – where your subject is moving fast yet you may have limited light available.
  • Concerts – also low in light and often ‘no-flash’ zones
  • Art Galleries, Churches etc- many galleries have rules against using a flash and of course being indoors are not well lit.
  • Birthday Parties – blowing out the candles in a dark room can give you a nice moody shot which would be ruined by a bright flash. Increasing the ISO can help capture the scene.
ISO is an important aspect of digital photography to have an understanding of if you want to gain more control of your digital camera. Experiment with different settings and how they impact your images today.

http://www.digital-photography-school.com

The Importance of Personal Projects

Can turning pro kill your passion for photography? The importance of personal projects.
Living the dream of turning your passion into a profitable business sounds like the ideal job and, in many ways, it is the best job in the world. But it doesn’t come without its drawbacks.
Of course, the financial security of leaving a 9 to 5 job to be your own boss is the first drawback that would come to mind. Most pros did not quit their day jobs overnight to open a studio. For most it is a very gradual switch and they go from shooting as a weekend and evening gig to a full time job when the client base is large enough to support them. There is one aspect that most photographers do not consider when making the jump to becoming a pro (as in making a living from your photography), it is the simple  fact that at some point, sooner or later, the passion for the craft may diminish or even die.
It happened to me and to a lot of other photographers I know personally or read interviews about. The consequence of turning pro can be the feeling that photography has become a job, and therefore a chore. It took me a while to realize what the problem was and it was gradual. As I was spending each week shooting for work, photography was slowly becoming mundane and I started to leave my camera behind on my days off… Part of it was that I was not always shooting what I loved for work. As a new pro, you tend to want to take all the work you can get, whether you find satisfaction in it or not. Another problem was that, since I was spending a lot of time in the digital darkroom processing client images, I did not feel like processing personal work on my time off. As a result I wasn’t shooting for fun anymore.
What changed my outlook and made my passion for photography stronger than ever?
I challenged myself to work on special projects such as a 52 week project, I gave myself some self assignments on weekends such as doing more street photography, limiting myself to one lens, trying new techniques, challenging myself to experimenting in genres that were outside my comfort zone, etc.
Shooting for a self assigned project about street performers
Photo of the week #21 of my 52 week project
The result was almost immediate. Through sharing my work with others on social media and the blog, my passion for photography was rekindled and my work got better. The results were even apparent in my professional work, I felt more confident and it showed. My renewed passion and confidence gave me the edge to sell myself as a photographer and gain new clients which in turn allowed me to really find a niche and specialize in photography genres that I truly love. Now that I’m busier than ever with commercial photography work, I still do not miss an opportunity to go on photo walks and share my passion with other photographers or photography lovers. I continue to show my work on FB and a personal blog, I also started a commercial photography blog where I post some of my work related images. I keep them separate because they represent two different aspects of the craft that I love but they are intertwined in many ways as they both are a reflection of my personality and my passion for capturing a moment in time.
Interior photography is what I do for work and I love it!
As well as food photography.
If you are a pro photographer and you have experienced the same loss of passion because photography became just another job, I urge you to give yourself some personal projects and to share your work with others in order to find your muse again. If you are thinking of making the jump into pro photography, be aware that this may happen so try to keep the personal projects part of your routine to keep the passion alive!
I would love to hear from you if this is something you have experienced.

Read more: http://www.digital-photography-school.com/the-importance-of-personal-projects#ixzz1La0tPHZf

"I wonder what happens if I......"

photo of car dashboard whilst driving at night (ps I was not driving__)
Photos shot out front window of car whilst driving at night (love the street light swirls)


Digital Photography School website

http://www.digital-photography-school.com/kick-your-creativity-up-a-notch#more-24265

Understanding your digital SLR's mode dial by butterscotchcom

Understanding digital camera modes

http://mansurovs.com/understanding-digital-camera-modes

sorting out class times

Due to health issues i can only do 1/2 day (4 hours max) of each full day of classes.  Term one was very difficult as i was always on the back foot trying to catch up with the rest of the class, and having to miss so much of the in-class tutorials (especially Premier and After Effects) made it very difficult for me to do the work at home.

So in 2nd term i will endeavor to attend both Thursday morning classes each week and alternate Monday mornings and afternoons.  Storyboarding on Thursdays will be easier (i hope) to do at home than After Effects.

I'm fully up to date with all assignments and this is great, a very good way to start off 2nd term. 

Thanks to David and Jeanette for putting up with my lack of in-class hours.  Hopefully my enthusiasm to learn and to do the work goes someway to making up for this.

TERM TWO

2nd term has started off well with HDR being taught in photography, i know that a lot of the class enrolled in this course to learn photography in particular, so learning about HDR is great.   I went up to Mt Dandenong today to take lots of photos of the stunning forrests and am looking forward to converting them to HDR.

Monday, 18 April 2011

HELP PLEASE

Does anyone know how to bring an image with transparency into After Effects???
I've tried .gif and .eps files, but AE flattens them onto a white background.

THANKS!